Dutch and British colonisation made an indelible mark on Guyana, leaving behind a now dilapidated colonial capital, a volatile mix of peoples and a curious political geography. The country's natural attractions, however, are impressive, unspoiled and on a scale that dwarfs human endeavour. Guyana has immense falls, vast tropical rainforest, and grasslands teeming with wildlife. It could be the eco-tourism destination of the future. Right now, it's for the rugged.