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The Colombia you don't hear about in the newspapers is surprisingly relaxed and is inhabited by extremely personable and spirited people pursuing orderly lives. Its cities may be daunting, but it has some wonderful towns, Caribbean beaches, cordilleras, Andean valleys and Amazonian rainforest. Steeped in myth and mysticism, Colombia, when safe, is arguably the most underrated travel destination on the continent. Six-day return treks to the ruins of La Ciudad Perdida are very popular. There is great snorkeling and diving off the Islas del Rosario, 20mi offshore from Cartagena, and off the the Isla Barú, the peninsula south of Cartagena. The waters around San Andrés and Providencia are ooh-aah pretty-fishy spots of choice delight. Adventurous jungle tours of the Amazonian interior can be arranged in Leticia.